Recently, I met pie pal Judy and 2 other friends in Quebec City to get a “French Fix” without going to France. In Old Quebec, the narrow shop-lined streets, bistros, churches, and parks in full bloom are reminiscent of Paris, but without rowdy tourists and packed museums. 
There is an aura of calmness, happiness, and cleanliness here.
People: Quebecoise. The Quebecoise are the descendants of the French settlers in Quebec and people of any ethnicity who live in the province. We were struck by the friendless of everyone we met as we toured the city and beyond. All are bilingual and are patient with those who want to practice their high school French.
Places: Quebec City and Île d’Orléans. Quebec City’s “upper town” or Old Quebec is a steep climb from the St. Lawrence River and sight-seeing in the “lower town” is made easier by a popular funicular carrying passengers back up the hill to the Old City. We enjoyed ambling in this area of Old Quebec (and riding the funicular). We also took a day trip to see Montmorency Falls which are claimed to be higher than Niagara Falls, St. Anne’s Basilica, and the rural area of Île d’Orléans, an island in the middle of the St. Lawrence River accessible by a bridge. With only six villages in its 21 miles length, most of the area is used to grow grains, fruits, and vegetables and is the location for summer homes for locals and tourists.
Pies: Quebec (province and city) is a Pie Paradise. The traditional pie is a maple sugar pie (tarte au sirop d’erable) and its variations made with sugar or honey; I had one of each! The maple syrup pie traces its origins to the North of France where the pie was made with brown sugar. In New France, the main source for sugar was the maple tree, and thus the “tarte tradionnelle” is made with maple syrup. All the sugar pies taste best with a side of ice cream, whipped cream, or a drizzle of cream to compliment the sweetness. Just to be sure I was getting enough pie, I also had a seafood pot pie one night for dinner.
For our grand pienale on our last night together we enjoyed an apple pie that we had purchased at the apple orchard on Île d’Orléans. We determined that this pie also needed a scoop of ice cream, so we stopped at the ice cream shop near the hotel, found a table, and proceeded to finish the pie.
A sweet ending to our trip. Au revoir Quebec.
- 1 batch of your favorite pie crust pastry
- 1½ cups pure maple syrup
- ½ cup butter
- ½ cup whipping (35%) cream
- 2 tsp all-purpose flour
- ¼ tsp salt
- 2 large eggs
- Roll out the dough and place it in a 9-inch pie plate; chill until the filling is ready
- Preheat oven to 325ºF
- In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, bring maple syrup to a gentle boil and cook, reducing the heat if necessary, for 5 minutes
- Remove saucepan from heat; stir in the butter until melted
- Stir in cream
- Transfer ½ cup of mixture to small bowl; whisk flour and salt into it; add mixture back into saucepan
- Continue whisking; allowing to cool slightly
- Beat eggs; whisk into saucepan mixture
- Pour filling into pie shell and bake until center is golden brown, bubbly, and firm when lightly touched (about 45 minutes)
